Powercats have a cushion of compressed air provided by the tunnel between the two hulls that narrows from bow to stern. Naturally, you have to use caution when speeding up in rough seas, but it’s an option that should be explored when the going gets tough. At times, in certain sea conditions, going faster will help build that cushion and reduce impacts. The shrinking tunnel, combined with speed, compresses air and provides that cushion. Look at virtually every modern cat and you’ll notice that the tunnel grows smaller as you move aft. What gives? A powercat gets its smooth ride from the cushion of air compressed between the two hulls. Chopping the throttle can cause the boat to pound and slap, and ending the pounding is probably why you were interested in twin hulls in the first place. Oddly, in a cat this may have the opposite effect. Setting Speed – In a monohull, when the going gets tough and the trim has been properly set, there’s only one way to smooth out the ride - slow down. This will help bring that side of the boat up, keep the inboard side down, and will replicate the inward bank of a monohull. On twin-screw cats, however, you can mitigate the phenomenon by trimming up the outboard engine as you go into the turn.
Take heart in the fact that after a season or two, it will feel every bit as natural as turning a monohull ever did. On single-engine cats, this strange feeling is just something you’ll have to learn to live with. Unlike monohulls which bank in turns, powercats remain flat or bank outwards. While this doesn’t present any real problem, it does catch people off-guard simply because it feels strange and unexpected, especially to experienced boaters who have always run monohulls. Turning – While monohulls bank into a turn, cats often remain flat and some even bank outwards. Those who displace more and plane less tend to act more differently. So, you have a place to start, bear in mind that cats which displace less and plane more tend to act more like monohulls. How do you know which setting to try for the particular boat you’re interested in? You’ll have to experiment since no rule of thumb is 100 percent accurate. On such boats, simply set it for the most efficient fuel burn. And with some powercats, changing the trim setting has little to no effect on ride at all. Others continue to perform best at neutral trim. Some run best with the bow trimmed up in a following sea and trimmed down (again - just slightly in most cases) with a head sea. Of course, just as every monohull is different, every cat is different. If you've got a set of headphones that are supported in their EQ balancing (the cheapest cans are the Sonys, AFAIR) then you might have very good results, but if you're using anything else, just keep in mind that problems in your headphones aren't going to be removed, they're going to be multiplied.Some powercats perform best with the bow trimmed up while others perform better at neutral trim. It's odd, because without the plugin, the K514's are perfectly 'OK' for general listening, but the plugin makes the things that are 'not great' about the cans, and makes them absolutely terrible.
I think the short answer is 'maybe, but probably not.' I got the AR Studio 3 version of it, and while it definitely does a good job of giving a 'room perspective' to the mix, and a feeling of air moving between you and the sound source rather than just a headphone speaker an inch away, the problem is that your headphones used will profoundly change the mix balance, and since it's the mix balance of a 'room' sound, it can be very disagreeable.Īs an example, I tried running it through a set of K514's - decent budget cans that are known for being a bit veiled and without great definition in the low-end - and professionally mastered tracks just fall apart completely with the plugin engaged.
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